Leaving Laya we trekked a short distance through forest to an army post near the Tibetan border. Here we camped and swapped our mules and horses for the heavy-weight baggage carriers required for the higher altitudes of Lunana. Yes, it was finally yak time.
Yaks are short-sighted, easily startled, very big and well armed. Best thing to do is stay well out of their way. They have a nasty habit of swinging their head and large horns around if they are taken by surprise, or charging off in a random direction. Best not to be in the way. We had a couple of near misses in the next couple of weeks, but fortunately no serious injuries.
The next day we headed off ahead of our new companions, nervously waiting for them to overtake (as they normally did by early to mid-afternoon). We climbed steadily, through forest and then above the tree line towards the Tsemo La (4905m), the pass we would cross the next day.
After crossing the pass on the following day we continued over high ground, battling hail and a little snow, before the weather cleared to provide magnificent views of Gangla Karchung (6395m). We camped near the foot of the mountain at 4940m (our highest camp so far), and while the site provided magnificent views, it was a restless night as the lack of oxygen made sleeping difficult.
A cold start greeted us the next day, but it proved to be one of the most spectacular days of the entire trek. For once, the weather gave us some clear skies and the trek up to the Karchung La (5240m) provided magnificent views back along the Gangla Karchung massif and also east into the Lunana region towards lines of snowy peaks and glaciers.
After crossing the pass we made a 1200m descent past more amazing views to the West Pho Chhu valley where we would be camping for the night.
Next day we headed for Woche, our first Lunana town, and beyond.
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