Traditional country houses in Bhutan are 2 or 3 levels, the animals, usually a cow or two, live in the bottom level, while the family live upstairs. This helps bring a little more warmth in the middle of the high altitude winter (Laya is at 3850m). The top, attic level is used for storage, the house usually also contains a Buddhist shrine. These houses don't have a chimney and smoke from the fire inside the house escapes through gaps in the eves and the windows, which don't have glass. The ever present solar panels are not quite so traditional, but are now considered essential (used mostly to power the TV!).
The paintings and carved phalluses hanging from the corners of the roof are designed to bring good luck.
(Note: The following information on Drukpa Kunley has been collated from Wikipedia and Lonely Planet's Bhutan guide.)
The phalluses represent the 'Divine Madman', Lama Drukpa Kunley (1455-1529) who was renowned for his outrageous and often obscene behaviour, a deliberate way of provoking people to discard their preconceptions. He was known for his crazy methods of enlightening other beings, mostly women, which earned him the title "The Saint of 5,000 Women". He taught in exchange for chhaang (barley beer). He apparently possessed very strong magic and had an immediate and complete charm over women. Women would seek his blessing in the form of sex. His existence in Buddhism elucidates the role of sexual union in some paths to enlightenment.
His numerous sexual conquests often included the wives of his hosts and sponsors. On one occasion when he was receiving a blessing thread he tied it around his penis instead of his neck, saying he hoped it would bring him luck with the ladies.
On another occasion a large congregation of devotees gathered around the country to witness his magical powers. The people urged the lama to perform a miracle. However, the saint, in his usual unorthodox and outrageous way, demanded that he first be served a whole cow and a goat for lunch. He devoured these with relish and left only bones. After letting out a large and satisfied burp, he took the goat's head and stuck it onto the bones of the cow. And then with a snap of his fingers, he commanded the strange beast to rise up and graze on the mountainside. To the astonishment of the people the animal arose and ran up to the meadows to graze. This animal came to be known as the dong gyem tsey (takin).
It was harvest time while we were in Laya and the people were busy bringing in crops and preparing for the winter months. There was also some construction going on with a couple of new houses being built.
On our night in Laya we were entertained by the Layap ladies who came to dance and sing for us. They wear traditional hats made of bamboo, wood and beads. Their songs and dance are very distinctive and it was quite a surreal experience sitting by the fire while they performed for us.
Next up we move on from Laya, heading into the incredibly remote Lunana region.
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